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Oh, missed the last line, nevermind.
Try a foreach loop through the array (and any sub-arrays) and see if it has a key named 'one', and if it does check if it contains 'apple'?
Yeh, I did a foreach loop in the end, I just wondered if there was a way of doing it within in_array(). Obviously that function is very simple. I was merely trying to avoid a hefty foreach loop.
You could use array_keys() with the optional search parameter, but you would still need a loop of some sort for multidimensional arrays, I'd go previous solution though.